Craigmillar Castle, Edinburgh

Edinburgh Castle is by far the most famous castle in Edinburgh, but there is a second often overlooked castle nearby, still within the city. After a short trip by bus to the Craigmillar Police Station stop a helpful woman pointed us in the right direction, and from there we walked down a street lined with houses, and into a park.

First we followed a path through trees, then it opened up into a field of golden grasses and the castle came into view

The park is public space and open to everyone, with lots of people walking lolloping dogs past the castle- what a wonderful daily walk!

When we bought our tickets we learned that there is an Explorer Pass which will let you save considerable money on the entrance to historical properties, including Edinburgh Castle, where we had gone the day before. 

Craigmillar's ticket office is in a separate building outside the castle, and so it does not mar the experience at all. The staff was also very helpful and friendly.

Started around 1425 by the Preston family, the castle has seen a fair share of warfare and intrigue: In 1480 Prince John Stewart was imprisoned here for witchcraft against his brother King James III. It was burned by the English in 1544. Mary Queen of Scots stayed here twice and her supporters conspired to murder her husband in the Craigmillar Bond of 1566, 

We could see Edinburgh Castle and Arthur's Seat from the walls, as well as the Firth of Forth (bay north of the city).

The castle had been remodeled in the 1660s by Sir John Gilmour who turned the large halls into smaller rooms, giving it a maze like feeling as there was always another door across the room, another narrow, winding staircase to climb.

We explored several kitchens with vast fireplaces, a spooky prison, spectacular views and strange, closet like rooms just big enough for a person to stand in.

Where the floors had disintegrated the left fireplaces floating up the walls, and tightly locked doors.

Compared with Edinburgh castle, this tour felt more personal. Almost always, we were the only ones in a room or tower, and you could let your mind wander back to who else walked these floors, looked out this window or tripped over the uneven stairs rather than dodging tour groups and waiting to take a peek at an exhibit.

It also felt its age, there were no offices or gift shops here, just stones and shadows. A bird had made a nest above one of the doors and rabbits nibbled just outside the stone walls.

This may have been the highlight of my trip to Edinburgh, and we were so lucky to have beautiful weather the day we visited. If you're ever thinking about visiting the city, this is a wonderful stop that's not too crowded, easily accessible by bus and really lets you feel like you've taken a step back in time

Opening Times

Summer
1 April - 30 September, Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun, 9.30 am to 5.30 pm

Winter
1 October - 31 March, Mon Tue Wed Sat Sun, 9.30 am to 4.30 pm
Admission

Adult £5.50, Child £3.30


Take buses 2, 14, 21, 30, and N30